Sahara Restaurant Bar and Lounge Nik and Fiona outside their historic restaurant When Nik Hendriksen and Fiona Stark opened Sahara Restaurant Bar and Lounge in Paparoa in December 2002, they chose a name that reflected their vision of an oasis in the desert, and of creating a local cuisine that would provide a dining experience that was perhaps refreshingly unexpected in the State Highway 12 backblocks. That vision appears to be working, not only for them, but also throughout the community. Until recently the small rural town was languishing like many others, but the past few years have seen a remarkable creation of new businesses and the rejuvenation of existing ones. Paparoa is fast gaining a reputation as a Foodie Mecca. Sahara is housed in the historic and now splendidly restored National Bank building at the western head of the Valley. Nik and Fiona, foundation members of the Taste of Kaipara restaurant promotion, are entirely committed to the local food concept, showcasing local specialties such as fish and shellfish, pork, venison and kumara, and using local produce wherever possible to create their unique Kaipara cuisine.

Franklin Gardens Hydroponics in action! Most of Sahara’s vegetables are grown to order just two minutes up the road at Franklin Gardens by Nik’s second cousin Jas Futter and her husband Noel. Jas says it’s an ideal relationship for both businesses: “Fiona is up here every morning picking the vegies she wants for tonight’s dinner. You can’t get fresher than that!” Although she and Noel have other jobs: he works for Richmonds in Dargaville and she is a Northland Health and Safety advisor, the Gardens “just keep growing”. In their polyhouse 2,280 cucumber seedlings sit waiting to be planted out, while in an ancient but serviceable glasshouse aubergines and tomatoes are thriving. Outside, potatoes, salad vegetables and herbs jostle for space, and Jas talks of plans to add more tomatoes; plus raspberries, gooseberries and currants. The hen run is also due to be extended to keep up with the local demand for “restricted free-range” eggs. Nik and Fiona's commitment also extends to educating local children into the benefits of freshly picked and prepared vegetables. Last year the couple planted an Heirloom Vegetable Garden with children from the Paparoa School, using heritage seeds from Koanga Gardens.“At harvest time the children picked the vegetables, prepped them in the restaurant kitchen, and produced a wonderful feast,” says Nik.

Pioneer Plants and the Paparoa Store Robbie and Rachel Many of the vegetable seedlings grown by the Futters are propagated by Rowie Panhuis in her Paparoa nursery, Pioneer Plants. Rowie also works part time at another destination for the Futters’ vegetables and eggs: the Paparoa Store, just across the road from Sahara. From behind the counter, owner Robbie Hinsch ruefully surveys a space almost bursting at the seams, the aisles just barely wide enough for one shopping trolley at a time. Despite an earlier extension when he and wife Rachel bought the business two years ago, there are plans in the pipeline to again build out the shop in order to further develop their growing produce, deli and organic ranges. Robbie’s background as a grocery manager and Rachel’s commitment to healthy food choices are reflected in their decision to run what was once a Four Square as an independent with a focus on fresh produce, sourced locally wherever possible, and a range of fresh and dry organic goods. It appears that this focus is what local people want, as business is booming. “We have been very blessed with the support of the community and a growing amount of shoppers who are coming from further afield,” Rachel says. There is a reciprocal supportive relationship with Sahara and other Village businesses, evidenced by Fiona popping in for a last minute item for tonight’s menu, and Robbie’s commitment to not stocking lines that may take business from other retailers down the street, for example, pies, sweets and meat packs.

In Paparoa, it seems, the food never leaves town. The little Village in the Valley is a model of the collaborative nature of small communities translated into their business activities. The interwoven relationships between food producers and providers not only support the local economy but also enhance and celebrate the uniqueness of the local environment and culture.